Sewing

Sewing

There are no exact rules regarding construction methods. Do not eliminate unfamiliar ways of doing things if the results obtained are satisfactory. Remember not all of these statements will apply to every garment -refer to the statements which relate to the item you are evaluating.

When using a clothing scorecard, be certain to give specific comments about what is done well and what needs improving.

Because there are so many new fabrics and sewing aids available, it is impossible to have all of them described in this manual or in 4-H projects. If you are in doubt about any sewing method or procedure, consult some commercial sewing books or Extension bulletins.

General Appearance

• The garment should be clean, pressed and mended with no evidence of overpressing.

Materials Used

• The fabric and trim should be appropriate to the garment constructed.

• Interfacing should be correct weight.

• Color, type and size of thread should be a good choice for the fabric.

• The type of fastener, its color and size, should be right for placement and use.

• All fabrics and trims used should require the same care.

Style

• The style of the garment should be becoming to the individual and suitable to the occasion for which it is intended. Garment should fit well and it should be neat and clean (this may only come into play if you’re conducting interview judging). Suits and coats should have a well-tailored look.

Fabric

• The fabric should be suitable to the style of the garment and the purpose for which the garment is intended. Lined garments should be lined with a quality fabric equal to that of the garment. Lining and interfacing should be compatible with the outer fabric.

Construction

1. Grain

Garments should be cut on grain. Lengthwise grainline should be perpendicular to the floor and crosswise grainline should be parallel to the floor.

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2. Machine Stitching

Machine should be properly adjusted so that the stitches are well balanced. Stitch length should be suitable for the fabric. Stitches should be straight and even. Threads should be tied or backstitched at beginning and end of seams and darts.

3. Handstitches

Handstitches should be even with no knots showing. Stitches should be invisible from the right side unless stitches are part of the design details.

4. Seams

􀂃 The standard width of seams on most patterns is 5/8” (1.5 cm). Side seams may be increased to one inch (2.54 cm). Depth of seam and seam finish should be suitable to the fabric. Materials that are firm and do not ravel need not be finished. Selvage may be left on as a seam finish – may be necessary to clip through selvage every two or three inches (5 cm or 7.5 cm) to prevent drawing.

􀂃 Junction of seams (example: where waistline and underarm seams meet) should form right angles.

􀂃 When worn, vertical seams should hang perpendicular to floor.

􀂃 Enclosed seams should be trimmed to prevent bulk. Trimming should be done so that seams are beveled, or graded (of different widths).

5. Darts

Darts should have straight even stitching with the last three or four stitches on edge of fold. Vertical darts are pressed toward the center; horizontal darts are pressed downward. Point of darts should be directed to, but not beyond, the curve for which they are intended.

6. Plackets

Plackets should be neat, smooth and as inconspicuous as possible. Zippers should be well covered. Zippers may be stitched by hand or machine. The method selected should be suitable to the fabric and the intended use of the garment.

7. Fasteners

Fasteners (snaps, hooks, etc.) should be securely attached and of appropriate size and color.

8. Buttons

Buttons should be well-spaced and suitable to fabric and intended use of the garment.

9. Facings

􀂃 Bias facings should be cut on the true bias and either slip stitched to the garment or top stitched.

􀂃 Fitted facing – edges should be finished in a manner suitable for the fabric and tacked in place. Understitching helps to prevent facing from rolling.

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10. Buttonholes

􀂃 Button holes should be uniform in size and appropriate length for the button.

􀂃 Bound buttonholes should have narrow even lips, and square corners. Opening on facing side should be neat and even with little or no handstitches showing.

􀂃 Machine buttonholes should have small stitches that are close together. There should be no raveling, and the opening cut carefully so as not to cut into the permanent stitches.

11. Set-in Sleeves

The ease of set-in sleeves should be well distributed with little or no evidence of fullness. Distribution of fullness depends on the style of sleeve.

12. Hems

Type of hem and depth of hem should be suitable to fabric and style of garment. Fullness of hem should be well distributed or, in case of woolen garments, steamed out completely. When worn, the hem should hang so that the bottom edge is parallel to the floor. Hemming stitches should be invisible from the right side.

13. Pockets – Pocket size should be in proportion to the garment. Pockets should be flat and securely attached with even stitching.

14. Plaids, Checks & Stripes – Properly matched.

15. Napped and One-Way Designed Fabrics – All garment sections cut in same direction.

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4-H Clothing Construction

Based on learning experiences in the 4-H Cooperative Curriculum System (4-H CCS) Publications.

Skills to be mastered Potential Exhibits Resources

Level 1A Using Sewing Equipment Pillow Case Pattern Guide

May take more Using a Sewing Machine Three corner scarf Let’s Sew

than one year to Selecting Fabric Locker Caddy Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to

master skills. Selecting Thread Book Bag Sewing

Selvages/cut edge/grain Chef Apron Sewing Skills Handbook

Sewing a straight seam Skirt

Seam Finishes (zig zag, stitched & pinked) Shorts

Pressing Pants (Pajama Pants)

Machine Hem Pillow

Casing Rag Quilt Squares (service project)

Selecting a pattern

Following Pattern Guide

Grainline

Marking fabric

Cutting fabric

Level 1B Seam Finishes (clean finish) Chenille Pillow

May take more Pockets (Patch) Apron with topstitching

than 1 year Sewing Curves Pajamas

to master Trimming/grading Robe (no collar)

these skills. Notching/clipping Skirt with pockets

Understitching Jumper

Topstitching Vest w/ pockets (no zipper)

Shirt with topstitching

Selecting interfacing Blouse with sleeves

Facings (Raglan or Kimono)

Waistband

Sleeves Sewing 5

Level 2 Using a serger (if available) Windsock w/ serger – fun stitches (techy)

May take more Darts Skirt with darts/waistband

than 1 year Zippers Vest with zipper

to master Button/buttonholes Skirt or shirt w/ zipper

skills. Collars Backpacks/duffel bags/fanny packs

Strip snaps for closures Blouse with buttons/buttonholes

Plaids/stripes Vest with collar

Knit fabrics Blouse with collar

Pressing equipment such as ham, Dress with zipper

sleeve roll

Pockets, such as slit, inset

Using different machine feet

Attaching hooks/eyes; snaps

Level 3 Special seam finishes Pants or skirt w/ flat felled seam (MOCK/REGULAR)

You will be Constructing Bound Buttonholes Dress or skirt with lining

in this category Using linings/underlings Dress with blind Hem

for the rest of Sewing sheers/velvets/other Item sewn with special fabric

your 4-H career special fabrics Action wear

perfecting your Designing Apparel Any item designed by youth

skills. Fitting Patterns Lingerie

Special hemming techniques Technology related exhibit

Special pressing equipment such as Create your own fabric

needleboard

Embellishments or special finishes

created by a sewing machine

or serger

March 2003